I woke up a bit down on Christmas day. Though it's not a particularly meaningful holiday to me, it reminds me of family time and made me feel lonely ad miss home. It was also a very gloomy, almost stormy day, and very quiet on account of all the partying (myself included) that had been done the night before. I lounged around in bed all morning and was finally able to get myself out for a walk and some lunch.
I decided a nice hike from the southern point of the island back would make for a good grey afternoon activity to I caught a cab with my friend out that way and set off down what looked on the map to be fairly visible and well structured system of trails. After the first 3 loops around the same set of shops and 2 sets of misgiven directions before een finding the first trail I was feeling a bit frustrated. I decided to venture up a path which looked to head in the general direction I wanted even though it was blocked by a gate. The path took me steeply up to a semi paved road which also seemed to be going in the correct direction. After 15 minutes and a steep decent, it was becoming more clear it was not wading in completely the right direction and it would be getting dark soon. Not wanting the day to be a complete fail I continued on anyway figuring the road had to lead somewhere. Where it led was to 2 very small and sleepy "resorts" hidden in the rocks on a small cove. I didn't see anyone around really do I headed to the beach to get my bareings.
Out on the rocks perched over te increasingly rough water was a bar. It appeared to be made entirely from driftwood ad resembled a ship that ha been deposited there decades ago. I was intrigued and decided to climb up the later and take a look inside. 3 sets of flip flops in various sizes told me it was not completely empty so I took my shoes off ad wet in. There as no one to be seen but voices emanated from a small back room. I wandered around finding the various decorations of tin Che Guevara signs a similar n sync hanging and a prominently placed bull skull to be an interesting juxtaposition the the surrounding pirate ship like bar. A pleasant Thai man approached me and offered me a drink. I asked for a water and quickly pulled out my map for directions. This did not seem like the easiest place to get to ad I did not want to be stuck here all night. He said that the path I was looking for was right behind the hotel and ran along the beach but it was rough out and getting dark and I probably wouldn't make it. He offered to drive me back on his bike for 150 baht but first I should hang out and have a drink. Finding this to be my eat possible option I agreed.
His name was jame (he pronounced it like Jim) and he was more than eager to sit and talk with me about the bar ad the area and offer me some of his food (a sweet and cold lentil soup thing that I dd not really care for). Jame was the first true example of the genuinely friendly, curious and hospitable nature of the people in Thailand. It was a comforting boost to what had so far been a very gloomy Christmas.
The only other guy at the bar came over to say hello as we'll. He was younger and very small and thin with long thick hair covered by a tattered beeny type cap, dark liner under his eyes and a scarf thrown casually over his shoulder. He stayed for a Brief moment to introduce himself as Lek, before heading back to the small room. Jame let me know leks English wasn't that good and he also smoked a lot of marijuana. A true Thai hippy. They invited me Into the room to try Thai drinks and some ko Tao grown weed out of a bamboo pipe. Not one to refuse an invitation I joined. I sat with my new Thai friends on floor pillows chatting and laughing listening to them play the guitar and sing popular Thai songs (Lek wasn't bad at all) and then attempt a long funny horn type thing, not as much of a success.
It was amazing to be in a totally unfamiliar, and secluded, place with new people and feel so warm and welcomed and not at all threatened or concerned. Jame suggested he drive me home then and we set off for what I was sure would be a treacherous ride up the "road" I had come on.
After needing to get off the bike and walk several particularly hairy sections, we were speeding down the main road towards sairee beach. Jame stopped to take me to his favorite Thai restaurant on the way home whee we feasted on BBQ chicken, sticky rice, papaya salad and mango salad, all of which was delicious. I bought jame dinner as a thanks for his hospitality and told him I would come back to banana rock soon. With a full belly and much happier heart I headed back to my bungalow on what turned out to be an unexpectedly merry Christmas.
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