Chiew lan lake

I thought I had seen the most beautiful place on earth yesterday and then I got to chiew larn lake (I have seen a mlion different spellings so I'm just goin with it). Crystal blue waters lapping at towering limestone cliffs. Thick jungle scales the jagged rocks and skeletal trees rise up from the waters near shore. The oldest living rainforest on earth and it did not disappoint. It truly has the feeling of being u touched by human hands. As our long tail careened across the placid turquoise waters I realize we were the only boat on the vast lake. As far as you could see just water and dense jungle. I stated the whole 45 minute ride in awe, a huge smile plastered across my face. Arriving at the floating raft houses I realized just the ride out was worth all the baht in my travel pack wallet.

The day was filled with swimming, kayaking and relaxing. Explorations of a few of the thousands of small islands saw monkeys crawling up bamboo shoots and coming down to the waters edge to drink and we casually paddled by.

We explored jungle trails and caves and even ate our dinner on a bamboo raft floating on the lake as the sun turned the clouds pink and the darkness brought the jungle to life in a symphony of screeching insects. The highlight of the trip was the swim at the monk rock where we climbed up the rock walls of the nearest islands and jumped off into the 30m deep fresh waters below. The warm water flowed into sparkling caves that we could swim into ad explore. It was perfection. Khao sok is the kind of place that makes you happy to be alive, it reassures you that there is still true, untouched beauty in the world

Khao Sok national park

I had the best day best day ever today. After a very long day of traveling from koh sumui via a taxi to a ferry to a bus to another bus to a mini bus to a pick up truck we arrived in khao sok. The oldest living evergreen rain Forrest on the planet, do I had very high hopes. Today lived up to them completely.

We decided to go it on our own for the first day and get the lay of the land. We rented mountain bikes and headed into the park. It was a rocky dirt path which curved through the jungle canopy, with steep climbs and mud pits and plenty of obstacles to conquer. We visited a couple spots to swim and walk along the river before we got to the point where we had to leave our bikes behind.

We set off on foot down narrow paths through the most lush landscape I had ever seen. There wee slips and falls as we climbed over giant tree roots and down steep ravines using jungle vines to brave ourselves. We stopped by every so called waterfall and swimming stop on the map in the search for the perfect location to relax and enjoy the Forrest. We came upon it at the point when I dot think any of us could have made it much farther anyway.

The water was crystal clear, flowing smoothly over the rocks and collecting below in sandy bottomed pools. We explored and swam in the most spectacular setting I have ever seen. The trees rose up hundred of feet around us, the dense canopy parting only briefly where the river split it. The water was cool and refreshing in the thick heat of the Forrest. Everything was perfect.

It was so mesmerizing that we could hardly believe it was already 3:30 and time to head back before the bugs ate us alive. The trek back was challenging after the long and hot day, but as the sun went down, the jungle came alive with the screaming of birds and insects. Things seemed to be moving all around but you could never see anything. As we rode our bikes down the final few miles of path i heard a loud rustling in the bamboo bit far off. I sopped to observe and found 2 black monkeys swinging and climbing through the bamboo. My day was complete.

Sweaty, smelly and filthy, we rode our hikes back to the rainforest resort to shower as change before heading out for some beers and a huge Thai feast. The perfect end to a truly perfect day in paradise.

Christmas at banana rock

I woke up a bit down on Christmas day. Though it's not a particularly meaningful holiday to me, it reminds me of family time and made me feel lonely ad miss home. It was also a very gloomy, almost stormy day, and very quiet on account of all the partying (myself included) that had been done the night before. I lounged around in bed all morning and was finally able to get myself out for a walk and some lunch.

I decided a nice hike from the southern point of the island back would make for a good grey afternoon activity to I caught a cab with my friend out that way and set off down what looked on the map to be fairly visible and well structured system of trails. After the first 3 loops around the same set of shops and 2 sets of misgiven directions before een finding the first trail I was feeling a bit frustrated. I decided to venture up a path which looked to head in the general direction I wanted even though it was blocked by a gate. The path took me steeply up to a semi paved road which also seemed to be going in the correct direction. After 15 minutes and a steep decent, it was becoming more clear it was not wading in completely the right direction and it would be getting dark soon. Not wanting the day to be a complete fail I continued on anyway figuring the road had to lead somewhere. Where it led was to 2 very small and sleepy "resorts" hidden in the rocks on a small cove. I didn't see anyone around really do I headed to the beach to get my bareings.

Out on the rocks perched over te increasingly rough water was a bar. It appeared to be made entirely from driftwood ad resembled a ship that ha been deposited there decades ago. I was intrigued and decided to climb up the later and take a look inside. 3 sets of flip flops in various sizes told me it was not completely empty so I took my shoes off ad wet in. There as no one to be seen but voices emanated from a small back room. I wandered around finding the various decorations of tin Che Guevara signs a similar n sync hanging and a prominently placed bull skull to be an interesting juxtaposition the the surrounding pirate ship like bar. A pleasant Thai man approached me and offered me a drink. I asked for a water and quickly pulled out my map for directions. This did not seem like the easiest place to get to ad I did not want to be stuck here all night. He said that the path I was looking for was right behind the hotel and ran along the beach but it was rough out and getting dark and I probably wouldn't make it. He offered to drive me back on his bike for 150 baht but first I should hang out and have a drink. Finding this to be my eat possible option I agreed.
His name was jame (he pronounced it like Jim) and he was more than eager to sit and talk with me about the bar ad the area and offer me some of his food (a sweet and cold lentil soup thing that I dd not really care for). Jame was the first true example of the genuinely friendly, curious and hospitable nature of the people in Thailand. It was a comforting boost to what had so far been a very gloomy Christmas.
The only other guy at the bar came over to say hello as we'll. He was younger and very small and thin with long thick hair covered by a tattered beeny type cap, dark liner under his eyes and a scarf thrown casually over his shoulder. He stayed for a Brief moment to introduce himself as Lek, before heading back to the small room. Jame let me know leks English wasn't that good and he also smoked a lot of marijuana. A true Thai hippy. They invited me Into the room to try Thai drinks and some ko Tao grown weed out of a bamboo pipe. Not one to refuse an invitation I joined. I sat with my new Thai friends on floor pillows chatting and laughing listening to them play the guitar and sing popular Thai songs (Lek wasn't bad at all) and then attempt a long funny horn type thing, not as much of a success.
It was amazing to be in a totally unfamiliar, and secluded, place with new people and feel so warm and welcomed and not at all threatened or concerned. Jame suggested he drive me home then and we set off for what I was sure would be a treacherous ride up the "road" I had come on.
After needing to get off the bike and walk several particularly hairy sections, we were speeding down the main road towards sairee beach. Jame stopped to take me to his favorite Thai restaurant on the way home whee we feasted on BBQ chicken, sticky rice, papaya salad and mango salad, all of which was delicious. I bought jame dinner as a thanks for his hospitality and told him I would come back to banana rock soon. With a full belly and much happier heart I headed back to my bungalow on what turned out to be an unexpectedly merry Christmas.

Ko Tao

So Internet is not unite so reliable outside of Bangkok...I've been on the island almost a week now and it is the first day I have woken up to a clear blue sky and soft sunshine. The trek to ko Tao involved a night train from Bangkok, which other than the bathrooms was pretty great! Made a travel companion who joined me on the bus and then the ferry crossing which turned into my worst nightmar come true. Trapped on. Relatively small boat on very rough seas with about 2/3 of the passengers vomiting into plastic bags the entire time, ugh.

Open water diver certification was fun, but my ears are still feeling it. I will be following up on that with and advanced course when I hit ko lipe and the andaman coast after new years.

Ko Tao is a mixed bag and either great to get away completely and be in relative solitude or hit the loud late night techno fests with te bucket loving, stumbling drunk euro holidayers. Neither is really my jam so I have been exploring a lot. Finally found a lovely and calm, but not abandoned, spot on the south part of te island and think I will make it my home for at least a few more days...

China town and river cruise

So Internet has been shotty and I haven't had a chance to keep up so wanna keep it brief. My last day in Bangkok included eating my way through china town and taking a long tail boat ride on the chao praya...highlights attached!

Wat arun and wat po

Today's highlights

Jim Thompson house, sky walk, bangkok arts and culture center, Suan lumpini

A Few More Days in Bangkok

So my day did nt stop after the gloriousness of the Food Hall. I then wandered to Jim Thompson House and took a tour. I then took a very long walk to Lumpini Park, during which I encounter throngs of asian school children and not much else. Also passed by a Thai University that was pretty amazing looking. Lumpini Park is basically Bangkoks equiavalent to Central Park. Its lovely with paths andponds andlots ndlots of joggers. I witnessed 2 of the strangest things Ive encountered yet while in the park. The first iswhat is certainly the largest(and most asian to infinitely more entertaining) jazzercise class ever. Or maybe it was a flash mob due to the abrupt ending. Either way it was pretty amazing and i feel very lucky to have witnessed such a superb (and asian) routine. The next surreal moment was when walking along the jogging path at dusk. I heard some vaguemusic in the distance that remindedme of whatwoud be played at jamboree or perhaps a theme par geared towads children. I didnt pay much attention as this has happened several times during my bangkok wanderings. But I then nticed that every singlle person in the park stopped exactly where they were in whateer direction they happened to be facing. And there werea lot of people in the park. it was creepy to say the least. They didnt sing along or put their hands to theirhearts,they just stood there motionless. when the music ended they went bck to business as usual. This was my first (and so far only) encounter with the Thai National Anthem, which is played at dawn and duskeach day.

After getting completely lost leaving the park, I usedthe subway frt he first time. I must applaud bangkok on their incredibly efficien and easy tonavigate public transit system. it was become my goo friend. I then headed back to Suhkumvit forthe evening, whereI hadasolodnner at a local spot and had an incredibly entertaining conversation with 2 swedish dudes who were pretty much living cartoon charachters, Johanne and Sfen :)

Siam paragon food hall

Food court heaven would be an understatement. The massive food hall at the Siam paragon mall literally has everything you could dream of and more. I wandered around perusing for over and hour (and got lost twice) before I was able to pick something. I ended up with a huge bowl of noodle soup with mixed beef (which included everything from stewed beef, meet balls and beef tendons to some fatty stuff I could not identify) for 60 baht, about $2. With 40 baht left to burn on my food court card I'm going to see what I can find to ease the burning in my lips :)

I ended up with a Thai ices tea and as I sipped I wandered so more. I came to the gourmet market, and was astounded that there was something even more impressive than the food hall I had just been in. After exploring and almost taste testing myself into mild sickness, I bought some sticky rice and a few delicious looking fruit juices and fled the place before I did any more damage

The grand palace

I spent today wandering around the grand palace. So amazing! Here are a few of the highlights :)